Men’s fashion is getting a splash of color. At Men’s Fashion Week in London, Milan, and Paris, the Spring/Summer 2023-2024 collections stand out because they are all one color.
Cobalt blue, which is calm and cool, has become a key color for both casual and dress wear.
Bluemarble’s skate version of its namesake color was built around cargo pockets, low-hanging webbed belts, and cuffs with sequins. Mowalola’s comic-inspired collection got a Y2K edge with blue leather jackets and low-rise bootcut pants.
Canaku’s blue retro workwear-inspired set was broken up with black-and-white webbed grommet belts. It was also the color of choice for the double-breasted suit from the Italian brand, which had fun buttons.
JW Anderson’s torn denim set revealed oversized barcodes. Kiton stayed classic with a blue jacket with a zipper. Versace chose oversized blue suits and workwear basics over bodysuits that showed a lot of skin.
Arturo Obegero used sheer button-down shirts and pants that went with them to show the sensual side of blue. Jeanne Friot showed bomber jackets and shorts made of gathered satin that could be worn by either men or women. Marcelo Burlon County of Milan made a high-end look for lounging in robes and pants with drawstrings.
Moreover, warm shades of orange made collections feel more inviting. Hermès changed its signature shade of orange to make tangerine-colored knits with wavy patterns that are perfect for summer. Issey Miyake used sorbet-like colors in a cozy ribbed knit one-piece, and Moschino used them in high-end loungewear.
The bright orange Louis Vuitton denim set and matching handbag were decorated with embossed logos. The beachy vibe of the Liberal Youth Ministry’s bleached orange shorts and ombre hoodie came from the bright colors. 44 Label Group responded to the heat by making tops with flames on them.
In the collections by Etro, Tod’s, and Federico Cina, tonal prints and dye effects in orange added to the casual look. At the same time, orange suits were shown by Egonlab, Casablanca, Brioni, and Erdem.
Brown has been a very popular color for Gen Z, but rusty colors gave them something different to choose from. Zegna put together rust pants with a loose fit and shorts with painterly patterns. Burnt orange gave Etudes’ safari-inspired one-color sets a new look, and Dries Van Noten combined orange and brown satin.
Designers also looked at the color wheel’s brighter side. Yellow brightened up the robe-like jackets and pants by Marcelo Burlon County of Milan and the suits by Etro. The glossy coatings on Zenga’s boxy tops gave them a waxy look.
Yellow and black gave the runway a sporty look. Versace showed yellow bodysuits with cutouts and black pants. Ambush’s black cargo pants were paired with yellow tops and flip-flops. JW Anderson’s sunny yellow tops had scribbled portraits on them, and Plein Sport’s black pieces had yellow abstract graphics on them.
Ultimate Gray and Illuminating, Pantone’s Colors of the Year for 2021, were also well represented. The combination was used to make sweater vests by Zegna, sweater and cardigan sets by Missoni, tops and pants with a fauna print by Louis Vuitton, bomber jackets with a snake print by Rick Owens, and modern summer suits by Steven Passaro. MSGM put together a black and yellow hoodie with knitted flowers with loose gray pants.
